Cotton plants average height is one hundred twenty centimetres. Planting occurs between October and December, harvesting between March and June. Cotton flowers are a pale-yellow colour, can reach a diameter of five centimetres and require about seventy days to grow. Cotton is cultivated in particular areas of the world: its growth requires specific humidity and temperatures. Cotton fibres are classified according to their colour, their brightness and their softness. Moreover, cotton is also classified for fibres length. In fact, the longer the fibres, the thinner the yarn, essential requirement in shirting.
From 60/1 to 300/2, going through 80/1 compact : the choice among the best yarns is a crucial moment, then for this reason we only purchase the best cottons in the world, both in quality and innovation terms. We pay high attention to the proper spinning phase, because only a precise combing and torsion can create those paramount yarns able to give us the best color appeal, the perfect quality of white and a particular pleasantness of touch. The yarns purchased are electronically checked in order to eliminate all imperfections and contaminations and they are made ready for the yarn dyeing phase.
YARN DYEING PHASE
The cones are dyed in the selected colors, with machineries able to support the different yarns quantities and, once dyed, they are carefully checked in order to verify the correct shade.
WARPING AND WEAVING
Since ever, we perform with the most precise attention and the highest mastery the warping phase, which is needed to make the yarns parallel and put them on the beam: we believe that this is a crucial point in order to make later on a flawless weaving. We use warping machines selected among the state of the art devices, but also warping machines for short meters, called drum sample warping machines.
The weaving is the art of building a fabric: it is the result of mixing of warp yarns with weft yarns. We use more than one hundred and ten proprietary looms, all cutting edge generation, besides those belonging to our own historical partners. They are rapier looms and jacquard looms, in order to allow us to meet the uttermost level of market complexity. Since ever, we melt tradition and modernity, thanks to the use of highly technological machines and highly qualified personnel; we also have conscientious procedures aimed to complete a rigorous control of each single meter of grey fabric before it gets through the finishing.
Just like weaving is the hearth of fabrics, finishing is its soul! Through the finishing, indeed, personality and shine are added to the fabric. This result is reached with the bleaching and mercerizing, with the first process it is reached the desired shade of white, while the second modifies the cotton particle, giving it its own special shine. Beside all this, we make all those operations that can be done on a fabric in order to improve its appearance, its touch and its characteristics. These phases, called, finishing, can be for example raising, brushing or chintzing; on the base of the need, there are also special easy care or no iron treatments. We believe this to be a very delicate and complex phase, then we have chosen a deep and close collaboration with our finishing in order to assure the best results.
The latest control is done on the finished fabrics internally by the quality laboratory, given that quality is one of our paramount values.
Once the fabrics have been checked, they are totally automatically packed . Fabrics are now sent to the warehouse. Every single fabric is identified by a label where, among various information, such as article name and meters length, a univocal alphanumeric code is printed. When a fabrics is purchased, the warehouseman takes it off from the shelf and, with a palmtop, verifies that the right item has been selected. This system guarantees the delivery of the correct fabric to the client and an efficient warehouse management.
Once the needed fabric has been selected, the meters ordered are cut. To make sure that the measurement is correct and to guarantee an high-quality service, the beginning and the end of fabrics are stamped , namely both extremes and the number of meters is automatically counted. The measured fabric is labelled and boxed. Next phase is then delivery.
Trend research is the first step to evaluate the street to go, which yarns to select, which colors to choose, for which graphics and for which constructions. A research which goes beyond fashion, because it looks at the world all over around: with an expert eye we watch the catwalks, but also shops and small open markets; we observe cool hunters and the most popular blogs, but also common people; we study the different innovations and tendencies also in art, cooking, cinema….in one word, only a particular sensibility for this all allows us to draw the guidelines of our collections.
We study the structure of new fabrics, we design the graphics of different articles and we create the colors shades. All this not only for the seasonal collections, but also and foremost for the exclusives of single clients; a team working involving our style department, the sales force and the designers of the fashion brands and maison, which allow the making of original fabrics, studied especially for them.
Since several years we have broadened our offer, studying special fabrics, such as velvets, air-tex, jersey, piquet or plissè, which require specific manufacturing and finishing. We also have printed and coated fabrics, which are specifically prepared during the finishing phase to undergo the next manufacturing process. More precisely, the printing can be traditional printing (with cylinders), including etching “lexus” as well, in order to have the shirting classic designs, or inkjet, for the most complex and colored graphics. We study all over designs, but also engineered or pannels on the base of the different requirements. Last but not least, we can arrange traditional printing and discharge printing, and pigment printing as well, in order to have double effects that gives a very particular characteristics.
All the models have been made exclusively for us and are exhibited at our headquarters in Guanzate and faithfully reproduce the machinery we use in the manufacturing cycle of our fabrics.
Through the partnership with circular.fashion, the company can actively participate in achieving the common goal of the circularity of the textile industry. Circular.fashion is an organization created with the aim of ensuring transparency and traceability of products throughout the entire textile production chain, from the producer to the final consumer. The Circularity.ID therefore allows the organization to identify textile products, approving them as suitable materials to support a circular recycling and Upcycling process. Thus, the potential of the organization is further oriented towards the connection between the producer and the future company for textile recycling. The Regenerated Canclini fabric has been analyzed and recognized as a sustainable fabric and suitable to be chosen as a weave or textile component in circular projects, being able to re-enter the production processes at the end of the use phase. In addition, with this choice, Canclini therefore has the possibility of facilitating the transparency of the production chain, allowing the customer and the final consumer to know the value of their product by means of the information document issued by the organization and which faithfully accompanies it.
OEKO-TEX: STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX® is an independent international control and certification system for raw materials, semi-finished and finished products in the textile sector at every level of processing, as well as for the accessory materials used. Since 1992, the main purpose of the STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX® is the development of verification criteria, limit values and test methodologies on a scientific basis. Thanks to its ten-years experience, the STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX® helps to ensure a high and effective product safety from the point of view of the consumer. The verification criteria and the limit values are far more demanding than the valid national and international parameters. In-depth product audits and periodic company audits also make it possible to sensitize the industry to the responsible use of chemicals in the long term and on a global scale. This concept has for many years played a dominant role in the STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX®. The OEKO-TEX® controls of toxic substances are mainly designed considering the intended use of fabrics and materials. The more intense the contact of a product with the skin, the more sensitive it is, the more strict human-ecological requirements to be met. Canclini obtained OEKO-TEX® certification Product class II: articles used in contact with the skin (shirts, underwear, bed linen, t-shirts, socks, etc.)
The Better Cotton Initiative is an association created to make the global production of cotton better for the people who produce it, better for the environment in which it grows and for the future of the sector, developing Better Cotton as a main sustainable product. BCI is an association formed by producers, intermediaries and non-profit groups operating in USA, Pakistan, India, Brazil and Africa. This is an activity that involves 10 million people only in Africa; realizing projects directly with farmers and farmers has allowed to reduce the use of water and pesticides in percentages between 30 and 50. It is therefore a cooperation experiment along the production chain, from upstream to downstream, whose pivot it is the direct work with the peasants. “There are millions of farmers around the world who can significantly improve their cultivation processes,” says Lise Melvin, BCI executive director. “We want the exploitation of the land to be sustainable and to allow cotton growers to continue their activities in the future, at the same level as today”. The Cotton Growth and Innovation Fund makes strategic investments in Better Cotton projects, supports and invests in innovations, while promoting the adoption of the Better Cotton Standard System by governments, trade associations and other entities. Canclini has decided to adhere also to this philosophy that has as its motto: Be part of something better!
The Organic Content Standard (OCS) is promoted internationally by the Textile Exchange , provides for the release of an environmental declaration verified by a third party that validates the content of natural fibers from organic agriculture in textile products (both intermediate and finished) and guarantees traceability along the entire production chain of raw materials, intermediate products and finished products. All textile products that are composed of at least 5% of certified organic natural fibers can be certified according to the OCS standard . The following aspects do not fall within the scope of OCS , therefore they are not subject to verification:
Quality requirements of the material
Safety features of the material
Environmental performance and impacts associated with production processes Social criteria .
The OCS standard applies to all textile manufacturing processes starting from gymnastics, followed by spinning, weaving and all subsequent ennobling processes.
Global Recycle Standard (GRS), certifies products obtained from recycled materials and manufacturing activities. It enhances products made with recycled materials, in compliance with environmental and social criteria extended to all stages of the production chain. Global Recycle Standard (GRS) is promoted by Textile Exchange, one of the most important no-profit organization that promotes international responsible and sustainable development in the textile industry. With this standard, Textile Exchange acknowledges the crucial importance of recycling for the growth of a sustainable production and consumption model; it aims to encourage the reduction of resource consumption (virgin raw materials, water and energy) and to increase the quality of recycled products.
GRS CANCLINI COTTON
The regenerated cotton yarn is produced with a low environmental impact: the water consumption is zero, and the photovoltaic plant that the company owns covers the energy consumption necessary to regenerate it. We want to interpret a new lifestyle and a new way of working and producing.
Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) refers to an international standard used for the certification of natural fibers and which includes ecological and social criteria. It consists of an independent certification system of the entire textile production chain. Canclini Bio fabrics are 100% organic certified according to GOTS standards and have the following characteristics:
The organic yarn purchased from certified GOTS producers.
The raw yarn is dyed in GOTS certified dyers, using chemical products in accordance with the regulations imposed by the GOTS standard.
The weaving and finishing phases take place in establishments that have obtained the GOTS certification, which machines are used for biological fabrics only, so that no contamination takes place.
In the transport phases, both the yarn and the biological fabric are insulated with a special packaging to avoid external contamination.
Before and after processing, the GOTS product is stored in appropriate areas for organic use.
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